Yesterday (Saturday) was a welcome day off from working and we made the most of it.  After a leisurely breakfast of omelets at the Cinar on the terrace we went with Hulya Yazici, Jeff Smith, Kristi Smith, Anna Smith and Lu Ann Sims to Hulya's mother-in-law's apartment on the Asian side - on the south part right by the Marmara.  The cab ride was not too long - about 45 minutes - and involved going over the first Bosphorus bridge.  After saying hi to the mother-in-law (Sevim) we walked a bit along the shore and then took cabs the ferry stop of Bostanci.

Our ferry (cost only 4 lira) went to two of the Princes' Islands with the second stop being ours - Buyukada (Big Island).  Buyukada is a tourist destination, mainly for Istanbulus and contains some century old summer mansions.  Some mansions have been restored but many are in a derelict state just waiting to be restored.  Buyukada does not allow motorized vehicles and their main commerce seems to be horse carriage rides - old style four people carriages pulled by two horses.  These are called faytons.  We queued briefly for our fayton - two rides are offered - a shorter one which includes an optional stop to climb to the top of the island to an old Greek church / monastery - and a longer full circuit around the island.  We opted for the shorter one as climbing to the top is a main attraction.  Jeff was feeling poorly and he and his Mom decided to chill in town while the rest of us squeezed in one fayton.  The faytons go quickly and the absolutely perfect weather made the trip a real treat.  At the 1/2 way point we stopped and got out to climb to the church.  This climb was about 1/3 of a mile and quite steep.  It was on cobblestones.  The walk was more challenging than we had expected but we all kept going and made it up.  The top was not that spectacular.  The views were nice - over the Marmara and to the other islands and to the Asian part of Istanbul.  The church was small but intact.  We then walked down (carefully due to the steep slope and the cobblestones) and met our driver again.  The drive finished the loop back to the town (there is only one town in Buyukada).

We met Jeff and Anna at the Starbucks (yes, dear readers, Turkey has now been inundated with Starbucks - this is new since our last visit four years ago).  Jeff was near death (at least he felt that way :-) ) and he and his Mom and wife decided to depart on the next ferry to the European side.  We saw them off then headed for the series of fish restaurants along the shore.  Hulya selected Ali Baba (it looked good and had the most people).  It proved to be an excellent choice. After meze (artichoke, red pepper spread, salad, eggplant, dolma) and excellent bread, a fish was brought to us for inspection.   This was a levrek or European sea bass. We chose it and asked that it be grilled.  The fish was delicious - moist white flesh and very healthy.  I forgot to take pictures otherwise you could have seen the before and after fish (fresh and then cooked).  Dessert was Randy's beloved kunefe (kind of a baklava with cheese) and Lu Ann had never had this before.  We then decided to do the second loop (longer) of the island and I am very glad we did.  Part of it was repetitive but most was on the wilder, less inhabited side of the island with splendid views and relaxing nature scenery.  At the end, we hurried to catch the ferry back to Bostanci.

We taxied to the main shopping street there (Bagdat Caddesi) and strolled.  It was pretty crowded with people walking and drinking and eating at the numerous sidewalk restaurants.  I bought two T shirts (well priced and needed as I did not pack enough of these) and then we walked to Hulya's mother-in-law's house to use the bathroom and get some water.  She ordered some doner and lahmacun for us.  I had never had lahmacun before and I loved it.  Randy dove into the doner - his favorite.  It was a relaxing end to a wonderful and somewhat spontaneous day before we cabbed back to the Cinar Hotel.  By the way, dear readers, if you are worried about Jeff, do not.  He texted me that he was feeling better after a dinner of french fries and beer.

The Smiths on the ferry before Jeff got queasy

View of the Asian side of Istanbul from the rear of the ferry to Buyukada

Lu Ann, Randy and Hulya on the first carriage (fayton) ride

Typical forest scene on the island from the fayton

The Greek church / monastery on top of the island

A typical "guard" dog - these are gentle, almost always sleeping big dogs who lay outside of Turkish establishments

The part I liked the best about the church - the painted ceiling

The most poignant part of the church - three tombs, of ancient monks I assume

Randy and Alice at the Ali Baba seaside restaurant in Buyukada

Lu Ann and Hulya - we had levrek fish and the best Turkish white wine I have had - Angora

If you get to Buyukada, eat here

The fish of Ali Baba

A typical scene from the second fayton ride along the backside (unpopulated part) of Buyukada

Sunset from the ferry back to Bostanci

We found this sign of home along the big Asian side shopping street, Bagdat Caddesi

A happy cat chilling along the Bagdat Caddesi